48 Hours in Porto: Why This Portuguese City Stole My Heart

Okay, confession time. I almost didn't go to Porto.

My original Portugal itinerary had me spending the entire week in Lisbon, maybe a day trip to Sintra if I felt like it. Porto was just "that other city" people mentioned in passing. But then my Airbnb host in Lisbon – this lovely woman named Maria who made the best pastéis de nata I've ever tasted – looked genuinely offended when I told her my plans.

"You come to Portugal and don't see Porto?" she said, hands on hips. "That's like... that's like going to Italy and skipping Rome!"

So I changed my plans. Booked a last-minute train ticket. And honestly? It ended up being the highlight of my entire trip.

Getting There (And Not Making My Mistake)

The train from Lisbon takes about three hours, costs around €25-30 if you book in advance, and the views along the way are worth staying awake for. I, unfortunately, slept through most of it because I'd stayed up too late the night before at a fado show. Learn from my mistakes.

When you arrive at São Bento station, don't rush out. Seriously. The station itself is covered in these incredible blue and white tile panels (azulejos, as the locals call them) depicting scenes from Portuguese history. I spent a good 20 minutes just staring at them like a tourist. Because, well, I was a tourist.

Day One: Getting Delightfully Lost

Here's the thing about Porto – it's built on hills. Lots of them. My hotel (a small place in Ribeira that cost me about €60 a night) was down by the river, which meant every time I wanted to go anywhere, I had to climb. My calves still haven't forgiven me.

But those hills? They give you the best views.

I started my morning the Portuguese way – with coffee and a pastel de nata at a random café near my hotel. The pastry wasn't as good as Maria's (sorry, Porto), but the coffee was strong enough to wake the dead, which I needed.

The Ribeira District

The riverfront area is... look, it's touristy. I won't lie to you. There are lots of restaurants with picture menus and people trying to sell you boat tours. But if you go early in the morning, around 8 or 9 AM, you get to see it before the crowds arrive.

I just walked along the Douro River, watching the locals start their day. There's something about watching a city wake up that feels intimate, you know? The street cleaners, the cafe owners setting up their outdoor tables, the fishermen heading out.

Plus, the views across to Vila Nova de Gaia (technically a different city, but whatever) are stunning. Those colorful buildings stacked up the hillside with the Dom Luís I Bridge cutting across the scene – it's Instagram gold. Not that I'm someone who plans their trips around Instagram, but... okay, I totally took like 50 photos.

Lunch and Port Wine (Obviously)

By noon I was starving, so I wandered into a small restaurant that looked busy with locals. Always a good sign. I ordered the francesinha, which is basically a heart attack on a plate – a sandwich stuffed with ham, steak, and sausage, covered in melted cheese and a beer-tomato sauce.

Was it the healthiest choice? No.
Did I regret it? Also no.
Would I eat it again? Absolutely.

After lunch, I did what everyone does in Porto – I went to taste port wine. I crossed the Dom Luís I Bridge (on the top level for the views, then immediately regretted it because heights) to Vila Nova de Gaia, where all the port wine cellars are.

I ended up at Taylor's, mainly because someone on Reddit said they had a nice garden. The tour was actually fascinating – I learned that port wine was basically invented because British merchants wanted to preserve wine during long sea voyages in the 1700s. Who knew?

The tasting at the end included four different ports, and by the third one, I was definitely feeling it. Note to self: day drinking on port wine is effective.

Day Two: Bookshops and Unexpected Discoveries

I'm not usually a "bookshop person," but everyone kept telling me I had to see Livraria Lello. It's supposedly one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world and maybe inspired J.K. Rowling when she lived in Porto.

The hype is real. It's €5 to enter (which you can use toward a book purchase), and there's usually a line, but once you're inside... wow. Red staircases, stained glass ceiling, books everywhere. It's like a library from Harry Potter. I bought a poetry book I'll probably never read just to justify the entrance fee and support the shop.

The Bits Nobody Tells You About

Here's what I wasn't expecting: the street art. Porto has some incredible graffiti and street art, especially in the Miguel Bombarda arts district. I stumbled into this area by accident (thanks, Google Maps leading me astray) and ended up spending two hours just wandering around looking at murals.

Also, the trams. Porto has these vintage yellow trams that look like they're straight out of the 1950s. Tram line 1 goes along the river and it's one euro for a ticket. It's a little touristy but also kind of charming?

The Food Situation

Let me just list some places I ate at because I apparently spent half my time eating:

• Café Majestic: Super fancy, super expensive, but the Belle Époque interior is worth seeing. I had coffee and a tiny pastry that cost €12. Worth it? For the experience, yes.
• DOP: Michelin-starred restaurant where I had dinner on my last night. Blew half my daily budget but the duck rice dish was incredible.
• Confeitaria do Bolhão: Cheap, local, delicious pastries. This is where actual Porto residents go.

Would I Go Back?

In a heartbeat.

Porto has this gritty charm that Lisbon doesn't quite have. It feels more real somehow, less polished. The buildings are a little more crumbling, the hills are steeper, the wine is stronger.

Maybe it's because I didn't expect much going in, but Porto surprised me in the best way. It's a city that doesn't try too hard to impress you – it just is what it is, and you either get it or you don't.

I got it.

Practical Info (Because I Wish Someone Had Told Me)

• Budget: I spent about €80-100 per day, including accommodation. Could definitely do it cheaper if you're careful.
• Best time to visit: I went in April and it was perfect – warm but not too hot, fewer tourists.
• Getting around: Walking is your best bet. Everything is close, and you'll stumble onto cool stuff.
• Language: A lot of people speak English, but learning "obrigado/obrigada" (thank you) goes a long way.

So yeah. If you're planning a Portugal trip, don't make my original mistake. Porto deserves more than a passing thought. Give it a weekend, walk up those hills, drink some port wine, and let the city surprise you.

It surprised me, and I'm so glad it did.